Review:
The idea for grant Achatz’s temple to cuttingedge cuisine first began to take shape after the young chef did a short stint at El Bulli. It was only a four-day stage, organised by Achatz’s employer at the time, Thomas Keller – but four days was enough: like so many chefs who have eaten or worked there, Achatz had an El Bulli epiphany. The ground-breaking Spanish restaurant could be. Recalling his short time there, an experience he describes as like being on Mars Achatz remembers a kitchen unrecognisable from anything he had previously known. And overseeing it all, Ferran Adriá, with his pencils and notes-more of an architect or theatre director than chef.
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1723 North Halsted, Chicago 60614, USA
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